When Julia Fox sat front row at Schiaparelli in an all-leather ensemble, golden padlock bag, and intense black cat-eye mascara that covered her entire eyes while vaping, the style caused a stir at the Paris haute couture presentations.
You Always Have that Strong Eye Makeup
Makeup artists at the Chanel couture show apparently took their cue from the avant-garde art of the 1920s by giving some of the models smudged black circles around the eyes.
And then it kept popping up on TikTok, where a lot of millennials and Gen Zers have been trying out thick black liner inspired by Tumblr’s heyday in the mid-2000s.
The new season of “Euphoria” features a shift from sparkling to gritty cosmetics, with heavy emphasis on black eyeliner. See Jules’s dark inner-corner liner or Maddy’s smouldering reverse cat-eye.
The smoky black eye trend has returned. And it’s dramatic, gothic, and intense. Ms. Fox’s makeup sparked a lot of discussion, led to an online fanbase in which many tried to recreate her look, and elicited some very emotional emotions from the public.
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According to Daniel Kolaric, the man responsible for Ms. Fox’s make-up, Pat McGrath yelled from the wings during the Schiaparelli performance, “Pack everything and hurry to Ms. Fox’s room!” as he was ready to begin applying makeup to a model backstage.
When he was repacking, he and the British makeup guru, Ms. McGrath, talked about her concept for a strikingly beautiful and graphic eye.
She had seen Ms. Fox’s garment beforehand and had produced numerous variations on the dress, including ones with graphic lines, deconstruction, a pulled-out wing, and the bold graphic eye that Ms. Fox ultimately selected.
Despite widespread speculation that Kanye West was responsible for the makeup, Mr. Kolaric really drew his ideas from Ms. McGrath’s extensive portfolio.
His homage to “The Matrix” was inspired by Ms. McGrath’s graphic eye makeup for the Comme des Garçons fall 1997 show and her deconstructed black eyes for John Galliano’s fall 1999 Dior couture collection.
“If you look into Pat’s archive, you’ll see variations throughout her editorials and runway shows,” he said. Pat also created “wonderful graphic black eyes” for Yohji Yamamoto in the 2000s, as Mr. Kolaric put it.
The so-called editorial vibe of this look is undeniably appealing. Aoife Cullen, a makeup artist who frequently experiments with bold eye makeup on TikTok and who also copied Ms. Fox’s look, praised the look because “it wasn’t intended to be attractive or lovely,” unlike most of the makeup we see in mainstream media.
Ms. Cullen remarked that it was “refreshing” to see a woman in the media who didn’t conform to the conventional beauty ideals. One of the things that draws some people to this style is the confidence it exudes.
“It looks very sensual, bold, and edgy,” Mia Anjelica, who also re-created the look on social media, remarked. The very sight of Julia inspires a feeling of strength in me. The eyes are so dark that you can’t help but stare at the makeup, which is bold and black and covers virtually the entire lid.
That gives me a sense of authority, at least. When I was done doing my makeup, I felt empowered, sexualized, and almost superhuman.
To achieve this look, proper application is the key. Mr. Kolaric recommended first applying concealer around the eye and on the lid, then using an eye pencil or liquid eyeliner like Pat McGrath Labs’ Perma Precision Liquid Eyeliner to draw the desired graphic shape around the eye.
We always begin the look with pencil eyeliner backstage,” he remarked. Using an eye pencil first is ideal because it allows you to sketch the outline and make any necessary adjustments to the design before filling it in. You may get a professional, flawless graphic design aesthetic by doing this.
Then, using the same flat brush, pack on a midnight black shadow within the contour you just made and blend it out towards the brow bone. Define your lower lash line with the same black shadow using a small, precise brush.
At last, you line your waterline with your blackest black liner and cover your lashes with mascara to complete the graphic black shape.
Byredo makeup artist Sabrina Rinaldi recommends a faint wash of black or picking brown instead of black for a softer, more wearable appearance if you’re not ready to totally commit to the look. Ms. Rinaldi suggested a more subtle take on the trend by just lining the upper and lower lash lines with eyeliner.
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However, you can do what Ms. Cullen did and use an eye shadow stick or a bigger liner as the sole product to achieve a deep, midnight black eye. She revealed that she favours the chunky stick liner Kali Kali Kajal by Byredo. “It’s one of my go-to tools for making that bold of a statement with my makeup.”
She added that she recreated Ms. Fox’s cosmetics look from TikTok by first drawing an outline and then filling it in with a pencil. “I went over the outline again with a cotton swab to make the shape match the original more closely.”
